I first began visiting Lomé as an escape from the pace and bustle of Accra. Crossing the border, the change in atmosphere is immediate. The city's quiet rhythm, its unhurried pace, and the calm presence of the Atlantic Ocean create a welcome contrast to the energy of Ghana's capital. There is a certain ease to life here, complemented by exceptional restaurants, a beautiful coastline, and some of the warmest, most welcoming people I have encountered in West Africa.

The Abidjan–Lagos Corridor passing through Lomé, Togo.

For many, Lomé is simply a stopover between Ghana and Nigeria. For me, it has become a destination in its own right. Long before the recent rise of Accra's contemporary art scene, Lomé had already established itself as one of West Africa's creative centres. This Francophone city has a rich tradition of artistic expression, from theatre and public murals to sculpture, music, and painting. Today, that legacy continues alongside a growing network of contemporary galleries, independent art spaces, and cultural initiatives that make the city an essential stop for anyone interested in the region's creative landscape.

Mural by Koumy at Otsunami Hotel, Lomé, Togo.

During my time in Lomé, I had the pleasure of visiting the home and studios of artists Kodjovi Tessi and Abla Sika Akpaloo. Kodjovi's work is centred on wood sculpture, while Abla's multidisciplinary practice spans painting, installation, and mixed media. Nestled within a quiet residential neighbourhood in Lomé, the couple's home is welcomed by a monumental sculpture they created alongside local schoolchildren. Standing at the entrance, it sets the tone for a home where creativity is woven into everyday life, with sculptures, paintings, and handcrafted objects thoughtfully integrated throughout the space.

 

Lomé, Togo-Works of Kodjovi Tessi (Copyright Adedamola Odetara for MONO)

 

Their home is unlike any I have visited. Set within a lush garden overflowing with tropical plants and flowers, sculptures inhabit the outdoor spaces while paintings and objects fill the interior. The boundaries between home, studio, and gallery dissolve, creating an environment where art is not simply displayed—it is lived with. Spending time there offered a glimpse into the rhythms that shape both artists' practices and the quiet beauty of creating in such a space.

 

Mural at the residence of Kodjovi Tessi and Abla Sika Akpaloo in Lomé, Togo

One of the most fascinating aspects of Kodjovi's practice is his treatment of wood before he begins carving. He first burns the timber, a traditional technique that helps protect it from termites while increasing its durability. Arriving at his home, you immediately notice the gentle smoke rising from stacks of smouldering logs outside.

Kodjovi Tessi photographed at home alongside one of his works

Inside, more timber waits its turn. Only after the wood has finished smouldering and cooled does Kodjovi begin to work, transforming each piece into sculpture. The process is as much about preservation as it is about creation, revealing a deep understanding of both the material and the environment in which it lives.

Presented below is a selection of works by Kodjovi Tessi and Abla Sika Akpaloo, offering a glimpse into their distinct yet complementary artistic practices.

Up next is Cotonou, a city that has undergone remarkable transformation in recent years. I was genuinely impressed by its infrastructure, efficiency, and, more importantly, the emphasis it has placed on cultural preservation, public art, and tourism. In my view, Cotonou is one of the cities to visit in 2026 and beyond.

Ganhi Market, Cotonou, Benin

In Benin, I have the privilege of working directly with two exceptional artists: Nathanaël Vodouhè and Sébastien Boko. Both are accomplished sculptors whose practices are rooted in wood—a material that has become a defining characteristic of much of West African contemporary art. The abundance of timber, combined with a long-standing tradition of craftsmanship and carpentry, has naturally led many artists across the region to adopt wood as their primary medium.

Spiral stairwell designed by Anna Korver at The Dahomey Residence, Cotonou, Benin

While sculpture remains central to his practice, Nathanaël Vodouhè has increasingly expanded into painting, further developing a distinctive visual language that explores memory, ritual, and cultural identity. His recent exhibition, Cérémoniels, was presented at Maison Rouge, one of Cotonou's leading contemporary art spaces, marking an important milestone in his artistic journey.

Explore the exhibition, learn more about Nathanaël Vodouhè's practice, and discover a curated selection of works by both artists below.

The Vodun Festival has its share of critics, both within Benin and beyond. Much of that criticism stems from misunderstanding. Many people I have spoken to who have heard of the festival assume it is some form of cult gathering or something to be feared. In my experience, this could not be further from the truth.

At its heart, the festival is a celebration of Benin's ancestral traditions, cultural heritage, and spiritual history. It is an opportunity for communities to honour their ancestors, celebrate long-standing customs, and preserve practices that have shaped the country's identity for generations. Music, dance, ceremonies, storytelling, and craftsmanship all come together, making the festival as much a cultural celebration as it is a spiritual one.

Two Vodun practitioners performing a traditional dance outside a family home in a village near Ouidah during the Vodun Festival

Whether or not one shares the beliefs associated with Vodun, the festival offers a rare opportunity to better understand a tradition that has profoundly influenced the history and culture of West Africa and its diaspora. Like visiting a cathedral, a mosque, or a temple, attending the festival does not require participation in the faith—it simply requires curiosity, openness, and respect.

Yemi Alade performing during the evening celebrations of the Vodun Festival in Ouidah, Benin

The Vodun Festival is not confined to its ceremonial traditions. As the sun sets each evening, the celebrations continue with concerts that bring together audiences from around the world. International artists such as Ciara, Davido, Yemi Alade, and Angélique Kidjo have graced the festival stage, reflecting the festival's unique ability to honour the past while celebrating the vibrancy of contemporary African culture.

Presented below is a selection of photographs captured during the Vodun Festival, offering a glimpse into the celebrations, ceremonies, and everyday moments that define the experience.

Beyond the festival itself, Benin offers an extraordinary tradition of craftsmanship that reflects centuries of history, spirituality, and cultural expression. Presented below is a curated selection of artifacts acquired during our time in Benin, alongside pieces sourced from across Africa. While only a small glimpse into our wider collection, these works have been selected from The Bazaar for their connection to the symbolism, mystery, and spiritual traditions that resonate throughout the Vodun Festival.

Art Continum exists to document, preserve, and share Africa's creative landscape—one artist, one city, and one story at a time. This edition may have come to an end, but the journey continues. We look forward to introducing you to more artists, collections, exhibitions, and cultural experiences from across the continent.

Thank you for travelling with us.